Sand. Palm trees. Um… golden skyscrapers?
The capital city of Qatar is undergoing a growth spurt of such epic proportions it’s difficult to describe. Situated on a tiny out-cropping into the Gulf, just off Saudi Arabia, the country’s open desert is being tamed, molded and transformed daily.
Doha was one of those cities I never really thought I would visit, but as usual, life had other plans for me. When people ask what it’s like, my standard answer is that is part baby Dubai, part construction site, with all the restaurants and brands you would expect to see in the west (particularly America). If you can drive for an hour without coming across a Starbucks or Baskin Robbins, a road diverted due to building works, or a skyscraper, please let me know.
Visitors to the city seem to fall into two camps: they either complain about the heat (did I mention it’s technically a desert?), artificiality and air of materialism, or they marvel at the mix of cultures, architectural feats and what has been created in such a short space of time. I’m part of the latter group.
A modern, growing city that blends western comforts (H&M! IKEA! Air conditioning!) with Arabic culture and the tendrils of influence of millions of expats, who herald from countries ranging from Canada to the Philippines. You’ll see traditional boats (called dhows) moored next to a parking lot smattered with Ferraris and things you’ve never heard of in the grocery section of Carrefour (what is a flat peach? Are those things next to the apples really banana tree stems?). It’s an interesting place.
If you’re researching holidays in Qatar, chances are two things will come up: the weather, and some of the more conservative expectations for visitors. The weather is a factor if you’re planning to go in summer. May – October is warm, but the humidity kicks in around July and makes even the evenings sticky. Doha has adapted: almost everything is air conditioned – all the shops, homes, offices and cars will be nice and cool. It varies, day by day – some days you want to climb into a freezer but others are mild enough to go for a walk in the evenings (yes, sometimes even in June). Because of the high daytime temperatures, many shops and attractions stay open quite late into the evening.
While Qatar is an Islamic country and its laws are based on religious ones, they are more relaxed than some other countries in the region. You can buy alcohol at hotel bars and restaurants and there are fewer restrictions on clothing. For women, the general rule is that your shoulders and knees should be covered in very public places like shopping malls, although shorter, tighter clothing is often spotted in more relaxed spaces and fancy hotels. There are a few rules that you may not be used to (like avoiding over-the-top public displays of affection and insulting people) but these won’t affect many tourists.
One other thing to remember is that the work week is Sunday to Thursday in Qatar, like many other countries in the Middle East. Most shops and restaurants close over lunch time for prayers on Fridays, so you may have to schedule your activities for earlier in the morning or later in the afternoon. Different rules apply if you’re visiting during Ramadan, so make sure you check on opening times and only eat or drink in public before sunrise or after sunset, in solidarity with those fasting.
Well, it depends. There are a few basic tourist attractions to consider depending on your interests. These include the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), Souq Waqif, Katara Cultural Village. The Doha bus is a good option if you want to squeeze them all in. But you should probably throw in a few activities that your tour guide may not mention.
Doha’s promenade is popular with early morning runners and families taking a Saturday afternoon stroll. On one side, you have a busy but tree-lined street, on the other, you have the blue waters of the Gulf and bobbing dhows (as well as the occasional plane taking off or landing, given the proximity to the airport).
At night, the dhows light up with vivacious coloured lights (I nicknamed them disco dhows because they look like they got lost on the way home from a rave) and the lights from the fantastical buildings across the water in West Bay reflect in the gentle waves around them.
If you walk far enough along the corniche, you’ll hit one of Doha’s cultural landmarks: the Museum of Islamic Art. Architecture aside (seriously, wait til you see the entrance hall), the museum offers an impressive range of artwork, pottery and jewellery with a dose of history. Like most museums in Doha, entrance is free, unless there is a particular exhibition or event.
If that’s not your thing, the museum is surrounded by a beautiful park where you can sit under the trees, have a pinic and plot your next move. In the cooler months, it also hosts a Saturday afternoon market, which features a range of locally produced and handmade food, art, clothing and gifts.
This is one of Doha’s biggest traditional-style markets — and they sell everything from live bunny rabbits (I saw a toucan once) to beautiful Moroccan-style lanterns, electronics, spices, jewellery, clothing, the standard touristy fare (Persian carpet mouse pad, anyone?) and steely-gazed falcons (yes, really). There are also occasional musicians, as well as a mix of restaurants, from shisha cafes to those serving Iranian and Turkish cuisine. It’s almost a bustling mini city in the evening, and an interesting place to wander around and hunt for curios to take home.
If you’re more into traditional shopping malls, the practically-named Mall of Qatar is the biggest in the country. Others include West Bay’s City Center mall, Gulf Mall (I love the traditional architecture of this one!), and Landmark Mall. Villagio is the most interesting one (it’s done up to look like Venice and you can take a gondola on a man-made canal inside the mall), Ezdan Mall has a nice mix of restaurants and fashion stores (including Magnolia Bakery, Pink Berry, Cotton On, etc) and Lagoona Mall is targeted squarely at shoppers looking for high-end designer brands.
Don’t know where to start? Ezdan, Gulf Mall and Landmark Mall are neighbours — you can walk between Ezdan and Gulf, and Landmark is literally on the other side of the street.
The sheer range of food on offer in Doha is staggering. There are about a million (fancy and expensive) restaurants nestled in every hotel, most of which host impressive Friday “brunches” (I use the quotation marks here because there is hardly ever any actual breakfast food and most start at noon, which is more like lunch in my books).
Friday brunches in Qatar (and Dubai, for that matter) are all-you-can-eat institutions with live dessert stations (would you like some Nutella on the crêpe I am making just for you?), roving chefs, bottles of bubbly and food inspired by at least three different countries. One of the brunches I went to had a dessert room (yes, there is a room in Doha that is filled to the brim with chocolate fountains, macarons, cakes and pastries every Friday) and another had a pasta station where the Italian chef made my gnocchi from scratch while I blinked in surprise. These brunches are expensive and a bit over the top (depending on how important food is to you) but they’re still an experience. If you’re curious, Sridan at the Shangri La has great vegetarian-friendly options, and the Four Seasons is the one with a dessert room.
If you wander off the hotel circuit a bit, there are even more places to make your skinny jeans stretch. One of my favourite finds was an unassuming Ethopian restaurant called Habesha, which served up a fantastic range of vegetarian options on a traditional injera platter. Otherwise, you must try a rainbow smoothie from Al Mandarin – it is magic in the form of layered juice (yes, I still dream about it).
The pizza from Nonna Zanon is lovely (and it’s a cute modern restaurant with a nice atmosphere), Bread & Bagels does an impressive portabello mushroom burger and the dessert menu at Sugar and Spice is incredible (don’t worry, they also serve meals that aren’t comprised of 90% sugar). It’s an adorable little tea shop that is very popular with locals, so you may have to book a table ahead of time or join a waiting list. Another good option for sweet lovers is Chac’Late. If you’re looking for an exquisite meal with a view, La Varenne in Tornado Tower is a great choice (especially once the sun sets). Vegans and vegetarians will love Evergreen Organics, a plant-based restaurant situated on a man-made island.
One of the more interesting spots to visit lies just outside of Doha. The Sheikh Faisal Museum (that’s Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al-Thani Museum to you) is a labyrinth of the ancient, rare, treasured and strange, collected by the Sheikh over the years. His collection includes items as varied as a traditional bedouin tent, vintage cars, Michael Schumacher’s signed Formula 1 racing suit, a penny farthing or three, Greek pottery, an aeroplane, match boxes and old credit cards. Oh, and enough cars to fill the parking lot at your local mall.
Everything is grouped in a vague sequence, but there are very few signs or explanations about what exactly you’re looking at, so it’s best to secure a guide (there wasn’t one available on the day I went, which may have made it more interesting in retrospect). The museum is free to visit, but you have to book in advance so they know you’re coming.
Okay, so the fantastical buildings are getting a bit much? There are a lot of day tours you can take to get out of the city. Desert or dune-bashing safaris are popular (they can fetch you in town and take you out to more remote areas of Qatar) and often come coupled with opportunities for sand boarding, camel-riding or a bedouin-style meal near the sea.
If you’re more into fossils than sliding down sand dunes, you can visit Qatar’s first (and so far, only) UNESCO World Heritage Site in Al Zubarah. Situated in the north of the country, the Al Zubarah fort and archaeological site is a bit of a drive (an hour or so) from Doha, but it offers interesting insight into Qatar’s history of pearl diving and nomadic tribes through a modern museum near an active dig site.
Have you been to Doha? What would you recommend as a must-see for new visitors? Let me know in the comments!
Visiting in the cooler months? Here are some tips on what to do in the spring time.